Week One of the throwing module began with a lesson on wedging – kneading the clay to remove air bubbles, aligning the molecules in the clay and creating a uniform consistency (homogenous). We are concentrating on the spiral technique (lots of practice required I think). The resulting clay cone should then be placed point down on the wheel as it is less likely to trap any air between clay and wheel head.
Centering the clay is the fundamental first step when throwing any round uniform objects on the potter’s wheel. The wheel should be rotating at speed and the clay kept wet while one hand steadies and the other works against the centrifugal force to create a conical shape that runs true (no wobble). This is known as coning. Consider the height of your intended work when coning, as low/wide objects (plates) should start with a low dome and higher objects (cylinders) start with a taller, narrower dome.
Week two challenge was to throw 8-10 even walled finished cylindrical forms that would be ready for turning and firing the following week. Did manage to throw a reasonable example on my first attempt and then it was all downhill from there, until the last cylinder which again was not too bad (if I do say so myself). Maybe after the next 200 I might be able to produce cylinders of the same size/quality. Using the same weight of clay each time and keeping the base the same diameter does help to produce cylinders of the same size.
Cylinders, cylinders and more cylinders. As many thrown forms begin with the cylindrical form at its heart, probably a good idea to get some practice in. Have started with a basic cylinder and trimmed rings of clay from the exterior walls to begin changing the form (a nod to the work of John Parker). Another variation on the theme was to join two cylinders together, both to add height and vary the form again. Using a set of callipers certainly helps to guide the diameter of each cylinder, in the hope that they will be the same diameter and fit together well. Flaring the rim of each cylinder also helps with joining, and can be removed when trimming, if a straight wall is desired.
Have been learning the hard way over the last two weeks about the importance of wrapping incomplete works well to avoid drying beyond the point at which you can safely trim (especially if you are not returning to the work until the following week). Do not keep on a bat as this draws moisture away. Place work on plastic and cover completely or perhaps place in a plastic airtight box awaiting next steps.
From cylinder to bowl. A Baber/Bridgford collaboration/commemorative piece (thanks for bringing it back from the brink of collapse Hayley, and for all the support you have given us over the course of this module). Starting with a 1.5kg (or thereabouts) wedged ball of stoneware clay, a cylinder is thrown with sufficient height to allow the walls to be progressively pressed out and formed into a bowl. Using a wooden kidney helps to create a uniform shape that is able to be repeated, and contributes to a smoother inside surface. The form is trimmed at the base and separated from the batt (but not removed) using a wire toggle. Leaving to dry overnight.
Trimming the base and exterior walls of the bowls provides for a foot ring and walls and base of uniform thickness. This helps to reduce cracking as the vessel shrinks at the same rate as it is drying. A foot ring not only creates a more refined base to the bowl, but allows you to glaze the base, adding strength to the bowl when finished. Trimming takes a steady and supported hand as very easy to let the loop tools catch and dig out a chunk of clay that can take some work to remedy.
After leaving this bowl to dry for 24 hours, it had dried just enough to allow me to remove it from the bat and turn in over onto the wheel for trimming, supporting its own weight and keeping its shape. Trimming softer clay has both advantages and disadvantages. Less pressure required to remove clay but very easy to dig in too deep. The softer clay did allow me to reform it into another shape (was trying for a waka and ended up with a seed pod form?).
Attempting to trim a platter when not dry enough for the rim to support the weight of the base is another lesson one learns the hard way. No coming back from this one, except to throw another one. Onwards and outwards.
The whanau (my sons Brendan and Logan) trimming their first father/son creations.
Playing around with cylinders joined together allow for more height to this form.
Getting in some cylinder/bowl throwing practice. Base of one of the bowls was too thin to trim so have joined then to create an ovoid form (at least I think its an ovoid?).
Brendan Adams cup 
Martin Baber’s response 
Set of three
One of the positives that come from not yet being able to get your thrown forms thin, is that at least the coffee will stay hot for a while, as we know how long the work takes to cool down once it is heated.
A number of completed pieces from this first throwing module.
Baber Ceramics 